VI. Pre-Orientation Orienting

This is the fast-forward part of blogging. I have no doubt that anyone without the surname Zell or Wanger could care less about my apartment, unpacking, etc. However, if you are reading this for pure logistics, perhaps seeking guidance for living abroad in Poland, A) stop reading, and B) feel free to message me and I’ll write you a ramble-free list of guidepoints to navigating as a foreigner in Wrocław, as well as Poland in general (ewanger@gmail.com).

It’s always quite awkward keeping a “personal” blog, tracking one’s daily activities. Let’s be honest: 95% of one’s day is comprised of busy work and monotony. Get food. Use toilet. Argue with taxi driver. I’ll spare you dear readers and get to the highlights of my first two days in Wrocław:

1)   Graffiti: This city is saturated with images, words, colors, dreams and nightmares. Tracing the artwork through Wrocław is like reading the city’s palms, taking its pulse. You can see people’s innermost thoughts and outermost concerns unlike any other means of expression. People here really seem to take ownership of public space. They fill any empty surface remotely accessible with individuality and innovation. With every step I can feel my creativity getting juiced, filling my brain with fresh-squeezed inspiration. What a remarkable city.

2)   The Market Square: The joke of Wrocław, according to my Polish friends, is that it’s the most beautiful German city. While the vast majority of the city was floored in WWII, the vestiges of the market square could charm Hannibal Lector into singing his love’s praises with a technicolor bouquet. I spent a lovely hour sitting on a bench and watching friends and lovers circle around the fountain (or, rather square around), and ever since a smile has been plastered on my face. It’s also where the nicer (i.e. tourist) restaurants are located, including tapas, fine French cuisine, and German and Polish food (including a pierogarnia!). Not to mention the artsy, hipster coffeeshops I’ve already scoped out as my stomping grounds.

Not technically in the Market Square, but stunning nonetheless

Just beyond the Market Square, towards the more commercial district

3)   Meeting my flatmates: I planned to see five apartments my first full day in Wrocław, hoping that maybe—if the housing gods felt particularly munificent—I might be able to survive one of them with only a handful of nervous breakdowns. Yet the minute I stepped into the first apartment on my list, I knew I didn’t need to go anywhere else. I was home. My flatmates, Ola and Piotr, literally welcomed me with open arms. They made me tea and laughed effusively, often for no obvious reason, and seem unable to contain their smiles, even when they tried. Warm doesn’t do their personalities justice. They are straight up toasty. They are bundle-in-your-favorite-blanket-drinking-hot-cocoa-beside-the-burning-fireplace. They are outdoor-jacuzzi-in-the-midst-of-a-blizzard-with-a-six-pack. Best of all, they’re both lawyers, currently studying for the exam that will lead them to broken fantasies and self-delusion.  In other words, they’re as nerdy and studious as I am! They love to study. In the evenings, I can almost smell our overworked neurons firing, hear our collective brain fans humming in order to forestall an aneurysm. They also recycle and bring their own bags to the grocery store. And they’re both vegetarians. I mean, are you freaking kidding me?! Vegetarians. From Poland. Polish vegetarians. Our first night together, we made the most beautiful salad full of crunchy produce, with a side of whole grain bread. I thought I’d died and floated to hippie heaven. Vegetarians. In Wrocław. The housing gods have looked benevolently upon my unworthy soul.

I only spent one night in my new apartment before having to venture to the capital, but it was one of the happiest nights of my life. I can’t wait to repeat it for nine more months.